October 22, 2017:
This time the people are different.
Firstly they speak English, which makes it easier for us to express friendliness.
Also, we present a respectable appearance, no longer the shoulder-length unwashed hippie hair and parka but clean jeans, pricey hiking boots, and blazer. Granted the sleeves are rolled-up, so we're not exactly formal. But it's a look of relaxed maturity, and also of money.
I think, fundamentally, money's the explanation.
As impoverished students we were forced to haggle. Everywhere: negotiate the room rate, negotiate the tchotchke, beg for a ride, get in people's faces. It was part of our "cross-cultural experience", the ostensible rationale for our presence there. But it created an inbuilt antagonism which I believe the Greeks felt toward us, and which I eventually felt toward them. I left feeling they were unfriendly — very different to the Turks, who were thrilled to see us.
Now the Greeks love us, too. For our friendliness, our air of mature relaxation, and of course our Ameribucks.
I have to admit, this feels better.