November 2, 2017:

We splurged for hot showers, at the King Otto Hotel.

I remember the sites vividly. Mycenae: tombs, the hill of Clytemnestra where fire signaled Agamemnon's return. Tiryns: cyclopean walls, secret culverts leading to cisterns. The Argive Vale: so tiny yet so rich in kings and legends.

Nothing is familiar in the town. It's possible we arrived after dark, so that landmarks were invisible. Yet the morning would have disclosed them, and the setting is so striking.

Such intense beauty in so concentrated a space.