November 9, 2017:

"Sheila! I've met some Greeks. They have very strong American accents."

As we sheltered from the rain eating cookies an Englishman turned the corner straight from Monty Python, cracking jokes and declining to offer us a ride down the mountain in his rented Fiat Panda. In memory he looks like John Oliver and sounds like Eric Idle.

I don't know how I made it to the summit. I was sick, not eating properly, losing weight, lacking the energy to walk two miles in Athens the day before. But we walked from the site to the fortress and hiked to the towering top; I have pics to prove it.

Today at almost age sixty in far better state of nutrition I do it again, although it's a struggle at the end, and, in undeniable neurological disorder I decline to climb the final tower.

I'm reasonably proud of myself.