November 28, 2017:

The one and only time we take an organized tour.

We're thinking, It'll be easier than renting a car. And we can lose the group on reaching the site.

Which we promptly do. The people are fine but the pace is claustrophobically slow. Grab the cameras and bail.

Except I overhear our guide talk about how the site is preserved by government. He's amazed when I tell him that when I came here in 1980 there were no ropes, no admission fee, and no people. I had to show him pictures to prove my truthfulness. How times change.

Despite the admission fee and the ropes and the people, it's still gloriously beautiful. You should go there sometime.