June 9, 2021:

The people are obese, and unfriendly. The staff smile and joke, the customers glower.

It might be my long white hair. Perhaps my rejection of the offer to add meat to my order. Or that I'm lanky while they waddle. Whatever the origin, the cultural mismatch is more extreme than it has been in foreign countries.

Whatever the origin. In two weeks not a single person has returned my smile unless doing so is part of their job description.